高定有多费时？看完这篇都得12分钟
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除此之外，我们还可以看见设计师们天马行空的想象力变为现实，源源不断的灵感互相碰撞，给了高级定制更多可能；当然我们还可以看到品牌纷纷“用力”只为展现出精湛的制衣工艺，比如大家了解的CHANEL就有22种不同类型的手工坊，其中10家手工艺术成就尤其高超，这也是它高定的价值所在。
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那么本季高定周各大品牌准备的“硬菜”，我们就浅尝一下吧！
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无论创意还是工艺，Schiaparelli每次都能惊艳登场，为高定周美美开场。这次秀场置景很有20世纪50年代高定黄金年代时的感觉，暗黑的地下室，华丽的水晶吊灯，模特们以庄严、近乎虔诚的步伐出现，这些一起渲染出了华丽私密的秀场氛围。
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品牌创意总监Daniel Roseberry本季以“不死鸟”THE PHOENIX为主题，向创新精神永不灭的创始人Elsa Schiaparelli 致敬。
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开场的金属羽翼这套LOOK灵感源于Elsa Schiaparelli身披鸟羽的照片；另一套颇具亮眼的羽毛外套由Karlie Kloss演绎，尖刺构成的羽翼，危险又迷人；流动的裙装下摆，仿佛鸟类的羽毛，在运动之时流露动感。
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除此之外，秀场还有大量灵感来自香水S的沙漏型套装，Elsa Schiaparelli 曾在1928年以女性沙漏身体为灵感创作香水，Daniel Roseberry“如法炮制”出廓肩收腰高定。我们熟悉的金属元素、立体雕刻等工艺以炉火纯青的视觉表达出现在高定作品之上，堪称无可挑剔。
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为庆祝品牌创立10周年，中国香港设计师云惟俊以“时间”为主题，打造本次大秀视觉。如何将四季轮转“转化”为实际的服装？ROBERT WUN用了几个概念来诠释。著名的“雨中人”这次升级成了“雪中人”造型，随着时间的变化相同的廓形上纷飞出了蝴蝶，好似春天的来临。同样的绣有粉色樱花的时装也代表着春日的到来，ROBERT WUN说过：“在中国哲学中，花之所以美丽，是因为它们注定不会永远绽放。”美的衰退同样也是阐述时间流转的意向，时间对每一个生命的侵蚀，变成了服装上被灼烧的痕迹，时间的美被“抓住了”！
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最后四套LOOK，分别代表了皮肤、肉体、骨骼和灵魂，时装以一种身体和精神上的渐进剥离。代表灵魂的这一套最吸引COCO，这件拖尾礼服绣着无数微小的彩色水晶，“灵魂不是注定要灭亡的，它回到了宇宙。”
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通过创作该系列，设计师ROBERT WUN亦向世人传递了其在过去10年的艺术创作生涯中的深度思考，那就是：接受有一天一切都会结束，但这也没关系。
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大牌们的新一季高定系列依旧精彩纷呈。从运动、建筑美学，到美轮美奂的珍珠，惊喜轮番上阵。
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是谁的爱豆出现在秀场头排？本季DIOR高订发布秀现场，DIOR品牌大使刘雨昕、杨采钰、于适、Jisoo、Deva Cassel、Rosamund Pke等众星云集，共同体验DIOR全新系列的摩登美学。
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置身于即将迎来体育盛事的法国巴黎，DIOR 2024秋冬高级订制系列，以其中蕴藏的古典美、叛逆态度和集体力量致敬竞技精神，深入探索女性身体权利。DIOR女装创意总监玛丽亚·嘉茜娅·蔻丽以刺绣形式呈现美国女性艺术家FAITH RINGGOLD的画作，令秀场置景极具色彩视觉震撼和运动竞技氛围。本季，玛丽亚·嘉茜娅·蔻丽从经典元素中撷取新意，为我们上演一场馥郁优雅的拿手好戏：焕新呈现柔美与锋芒并存的PEPLUM廓形；同时，将柔软细腻的针织面料作为诉说载体，礼赞女性身体的原始线条之美和对身体自由的追求。
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质感垂坠的云纹绸提花半裙、率性裤装以及经典的褶裥饰边展示了女性飘逸自由的身姿。
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礼服裙上古典雅致的垂褶裙摆、优雅华美的刺绣，则无一不在诠释着浪漫的女性特质。迸发生命力、匠心独具的运动针织套装，则成为点睛和应景之笔。
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歌剧与时尚的新交汇处，是巴黎歌剧院与CHANEL 2024高级定制服系列的惊喜邂逅。为致敬巴黎歌剧院，CHANEL将秀场置于其中，以羽毛、流苏、半圆宝石、刺绣花饰、精致编结等繁复的舞台元素探索历史与艺术的交融，与歌剧院达成灵魂共鸣。
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超模Vittoria Ceretti身着黑色塔夫绸歌剧院斗篷为大秀开场，定下了华美的基调。
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周迅作为CHANEL的老朋友，自然不会缺席大秀现场。她身着一袭2023春夏高定系列的黑色斜纹软呢夹克裙登场。
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这一季作品由品牌精品部创意工作室打造，在本系列中，面料达到了难以言喻的丰富程度：斜纹软呢、丝质天鹅绒、塔夫绸带来多元质感；珠罗纱等轻透质感和柔和面料配合蓬蓬裙和褶裥荷叶边演绎浪漫。
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品牌符号化身刺绣，带来独一无二的华丽与精致。同时，酒红色斜纹呢套装、黑色灯芯绒男士礼服、黑色羽毛短外套等一系列极具现代感的舞台装扮纷繁呈现，裹挟着时尚感、艺术感、厚重感，为环境的戏剧张力添了浓重一笔。
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以哑光、漆面等多样光泽打造单品，带来层次感与丰富感，再结合金色、银色、象牙白、紫红色等迷人淡雅的色调，让人们聚焦到色彩与廓形的碰撞本身。
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大秀结尾的新娘造型由超模新秀Angelina Kendall演绎，她穿着1980年代风格的象牙色塔夫绸新娘裙登场。蓬松的荷叶边袖子出自Lemarié手工坊，搭配Montex和Maison Michel工坊打造的超大塔夫绸蝴蝶结头饰，营造出戏剧化的魅力。
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新系列回顾了CHANEL与芭蕾舞剧的奇妙渊源，用巧思独具的芭蕾舞服致敬多部舞剧，呈现出一个尽显观赏度和感染力的服装世界。
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珍珠皎洁，如明月高悬，如汩汩潺水，歌颂纯洁、也赞美爱。Giorgio Armani Privé 2024秋冬系列就从珍珠入笔，为我们谱写了一首有关珍珠的静谧诗篇。
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无论是肩部挺括的塑形夹克、随风舞动的飘逸长裤，还是流动感上衣和半裙，都凭借丝绸一般的顺滑质感和流动光泽讲述着恬静从容的女性魅力；灵动雅致的刺绣细节和装饰，则将时装推向了流光溢彩的美丽。在本季，除了还原珍珠般的光泽，珍珠本身也成为凝聚创意的对象。用珍珠缀饰轻盈面料，就像露珠一般摇摇欲坠；白色、铂金色、金色相互交织，像在宣告一场浓郁色彩的狂欢，配合着空灵薄纱、丝绸织物等面料，更能呈现Armani传递温润妩媚风格和迷人光彩的心声。
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在高定的秀场上，仙女裙占据了很大一片天地，唯美的纱、柔顺的绸缎、层叠的褶边......诉说着高定时装的无限美好，也是一众女明星们的红毯必杀技！
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没有什么比Giambattista Valli更能带来幸福感的设计了！设计师擅长利用粉色、羽毛、纱质等元素进行颠覆性的红毯礼服创作，本季品牌继续延续不被忽视的唯美浪漫。
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新系列的灵感来源于印度北边的斋浦尔古城，这是Giambattista Valli本人最喜爱的城市之一。来自莫卧儿王朝的精致贴画与珐琅元素贯穿始终，呈现慵懒优雅的美好意境，配上秀场上的花瓣妆，仙气十足。蓬蓬裙上镶嵌着波浪形的白色纱质褶边，薄纱半身裙和紧身胸衣以不同的方式垂坠在细腻的雪纺上，花朵从肩部绽放，倾泻而下的裙摆与恰到好处的褶皱、荷叶边等元素构成了充满韵律的设计感。
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极简主义在“中东第一仙牌”Elie Saab这儿完全行不通，本季品牌一共带来了64套LOOK的创作，打造出无比奢华的红毯战袍。开场依旧是熟悉的金色礼服裙，每件作品沐浴在金色光环下，华丽的刺绣、水晶和珍珠装饰犹如生长在模特身体上一般，浑然天成。与此同时，本季Elie Saab走起了华丽哥特风。深邃的黑色，沉稳的宝石红、翠绿色，皆传达出一种内敛的哥特式奢华。
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斗篷兜帽、水钻刺绣、亮片羽毛、丝绒薄纱…...繁复的高定工艺，精致迷人的细节，构造出一个华丽优雅的哥特梦境。
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因为奥运会的原因本季巴黎高定周发布行程提前，导致Julien Fournie缺席了本季高定周。但品牌在高定周期间在Grevin 博物馆为馆内原奥地利公主 、法国国王路易十六的妻子Marie Antoinette蜡像带来了一个小型的胶囊系列发布 ，名为 “Last Queen”。虽然只有7个LOOK，但隆重而华丽的宫廷风令人无法忽视。
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高定周各家时装屋都尽显神通，把精湛的技艺、名贵的材料用了个遍。当然，这里不只有“仙女裙”。高定，也可以是很酷的！
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如果把时装与充满未来感的科技相融合会是什么样子？BALENCIAGA在第53季高级定制系列中给出了自己的答案：这是一场原创科技、创新材料、街头风、哥特风、滑板风与重金属风的联袂呈现。
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Demna将创始人Cristóbal Balenciaga的四个标志性风格融入其中：强调服装与身体空间感的茧型廓形、七分喇叭袖、设计奇异的奢华头饰和面料创新。拥有茧型廓形的夹克带着空间感和未来态度，由合成毛面料制成的高级定制错视仿毛皮大衣则刻画了淋漓尽致的哥特风格。
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树脂冷冻材料、碳纤维、塑料袋融化再造而成的面料、整片皮革、人造仿毛皮、铝箔、植绒羊羔皮，gazar面料、对不同面料的再造和探索让成衣充满新颖可能和质感张力，也引领绿色环保和生态循环成为未来服饰的主流理念。
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此外，象征着自由与变革的蝴蝶面纱则在不经意间点缀在不同的LOOK中，为整体注入优雅美丽格调。
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本季Stephane Rolland致敬神秘、浪漫的巴黎城。
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Stephane Rolland深谙“大道至简”、“越简单就越高级”的道理，设计师通过结构和廓形上的处理，将女性的身材完美的包裹；作品中大量的透视面料以及柔纱象征着巴黎的迷雾；裸露的肌肤又描绘出了巴黎夜色的浪漫，极简的黑白两色又诠释出了巴黎的优雅。
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值得注意的是，大秀的闭场婚纱新娘由Coco Rocha担任，蛋壳型的裙装，遍布花朵褶皱，仙气十足。
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来自黎巴嫩的ASHI STUDIO本季一共带来了28套LOOK，这也是品牌一年前成为客座会员之后的第三季高定发布。
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同样也是黑白色系，整体设计比较大气内敛，预测会被内娱女明星大量翻牌。
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本季有哪些独具巧思的新看点？
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本季，巧思独具的THOM BROWNE不再拘泥于成衣的完整，而是选择追本溯源，借助坯布的原始力量开启此次2024女装与男装高级定制系列之旅。似乎是为巴黎奥运会预热，本次旅程亦是一场运动员的入场式。
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不同厚度的原色平纹细布和马鬃衬布成为THOM BROWNE构建时尚的主体，呈现经典缝匠技艺的传统美学；配合大胆的解构主义创作，原本的运动员服饰被重建成为有机而丰满的廓形，时装廓形从肩部延伸而下直至高腰部分。通过钩眼扣、未经缝合的边缘及十字绣纹案，揭露“成衣”背后的复杂制衣过程。精致裁剪下，运动外套和一片式围裙，背部镶嵌蕾丝与正面褶皱设计的沙漏型束胸，手工编织成特大号开衫，一条刀褶网球裙和透视长裤都成为THOM BROWNE徜徉奇思妙想的海洋。
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形状抽象、色彩大胆、设计跳脱？别眨眼，“双人设计组”Viktor&Rolf可是再一次呈现了好玩有趣、让人大开眼界的新系列。
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在2024高定时装秀中，超现实立体主义风格依然是品牌持续的追求。Viktor Horsting和Rolf Snoeren回忆了26年前夸张生动的蘑菇云造型，并在这一
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