2025春夏米兰男装周ISSUE 02：自我瓦解与重构
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Canali 2025春夏系列仿佛置身假日时光——湖光山色，岸边佳肴，甲板漫步，大自然让人思绪宁静，也启发了本季的轻松闲适和多元百搭。
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夹克如衬衣般轻巧，西装则在保留利落肩部线条的前提下去除一切拼接。正装之外，从收腰夹克，到派克大衣和衬衫外套，整季休闲单品亦可一窥Canali的出众裁剪工艺——柔软轻便，简洁实穿，即使是Nuvola系列中的皮衣单品，也保持了标志性的柔软触感。异常轻薄的羊毛、加入皮革元素的条纹亚麻等精致面料，借由Canali的非凡工艺化身精妙杰作。
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本季色调搭配更为轻松明快，湖蓝色、深棕色、棕褐色、阿卡色和以波罗米安群岛为灵感的绿色交织映现，引领春夏优雅新风。拉菲草帽、水桶帽、运动鞋、便鞋和凉鞋等配饰，以及简洁的斜挎包，点缀造型，完整意式优雅。
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创意总监Simon Holloway匠心呈现Dunhill 2025春夏系列，探索经典英伦着装风范，诠释绅士儒雅演变之韵。质感面料融入精湛工艺，专注细节体现，始终如一地准确呈现得体的着装风格。
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本季基于英国社交日历，融合了正式和非正式的着装元素，无论是穿戴考究、正式的制服，还是观赏体育赛事时的盛装，抑或是出席晚会时的礼服，该系列服装均能满足需求。The House’s Bourdon造型西服系列推出浅灰色和中灰色两种热带羊毛面料，包括双排扣和单排扣两种设计款式。经典的英式图案，如人字纹、窗格图案和条格花纹，意想不到地呈现于轻盈面料中。
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“老练、自信、独具慧眼”的男士魅力于细节处彰显，标志性的汽车大衣和驾驶夹克采用经防水处理的双面亚麻面料；奢华雨伞、顶端的锡镴制狗头手柄和慵懒柔软的驾驶手套为男士衣橱注增添型格，本季配色进一步提升，注入更多细微的愉悦感。Burghley（伯利蓝）、珊瑚红、英伦棕和经典卡其色悉数登场，重新定义了对色彩和色调的"正确"表达。
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Giorgio Armani 2025春季男装系列将秀场氛围带入了平静休闲的热带岛屿，鸟鸣声在宽阔的秀场中回荡，大理石纹路的T台上有棕榈的投影在微风中摇曳。
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本季延续Giorgio Armani一贯的沉稳自如，廓形不拘于古板，色调简约慵懒。92个Look的色调从灰色、米色、灰褐色、奶油色、碳色、青铜色和海军蓝，到最后的墨色暮光蓝色，由浅至深，仿佛一场平和的日落。颈巾为丝质无领夹克增添些许妙趣，搭配全褶长裤和包边蕾丝绒面德比鞋，细节彰显品质。飞行员夹克搭配罗纹针织毛衣，并塞进一条吊带褶裤的搭配，让人不禁想起Armani先生于1970年代创作的男装系列。
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棕榈树元素印花出现在宽松的T恤、衬衫和裤子上，长裤塞进靴子，悠闲风度和实用主义兼具。温和的色彩、轻盈的面料、独特的纹理和巧妙的分层令人安心。
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本季，JW Anderson强调俏皮的形状和纹理，通过带衬垫的轮廓、宽大剪裁、柔和色调和多元造型图案展现品牌标志性风格。
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色彩艳丽的丝绸衬里夹克和呼啦圈边的波浪口袋牛仔马甲凸显夸张比例，巨型针织飞行员夹克将柔软和运动感糅合，毛衣下摆点缀着色彩缤纷的褶皱枕头，似梦境又关乎现实。补丁口袋夹克的肩膀上都有着凸起的的风暴襟翼，小腿中部扣上袖口的男士过膝短裤则看似18世纪的风格。长裤与同一件蓝色夹克搭配，被塞进了从小腿起没系带的复古军靴。
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一切都以非理性的态度进行着，羊毛衫在伦敦手工编织而成，带有吉尼斯广告的毛衣和运动衫突如其来的闯入表达了设计师丰盈的实验精神。
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Martine Rose首度亮相米兰时装周，之所以选择米兰，设计师本人解释为：“米兰以精致美丽的产品而闻名，我思考如何打破这种传统的同时也在弄清我对于美的感悟究竟来自于哪里，这种美存在于裂缝中、边缘处，也可能存在于通常不易察觉地方。”
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一直以来，Martine Rose以多元文化魅力、前卫锐舞风格著称，在本季也特别强调。模特们带着硅胶鼻子和毛躁的齐臀假发走上T台，女装中融入类似专业护具的补丁设计，而男装则被赋予柔软质感，丝光质地的裹身大衣行走间带来流动感。使用皮革重塑的训练套装、足球 Polo、套用甲板服设计的短夹克以及被男模特上身演绎的足球 Tank Top。冲锋衣夹克和战壕大衣对肩部进行了加宽，户外质感的面料选择则将「硬朗」的特征进一步加强。
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除此之外，本系列携手英国鞋履品牌Clarks Originals打造的鞋款，以及与Nike合作的双层鞋舌TN Air Max Plus鞋款。
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想象世界蕴藉现实力量。由Miuccia Prada和Raf Simons联合呈现的Prada 2025春夏男装系列展开现代理念中真与伪、实与虚的辩证。于此，我们受到鼓舞，大胆质疑所感知事物的真实性，继而重新审视，近距离探究事物本质。
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亲近唤起情感共鸣，人类渴望亲密互动、分享空间、坦诚交流。亲近亦能改变感知，远观之下，服装呈现另一番风采：细节看似简单、纯真；而当视觉拉近，感知随之转变。服装点缀金属丝线细节，为衣领和下摆注入梦幻活力，刻意而为的褶皱、斑驳、古旧元素，承载时间印记。
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父母时代的装束加身，新绎另类风格。比例夸张，刻意拉长或裁短，自然随性相搭。Bernard Buffet画作印于T恤，勾起关于演唱会的联想。多元灵感的单品并置，形成不期而至的对比效果，然亦裹挟深思熟虑的随意感。于此，乌托邦式奇想上演，想象力构筑崭新现实世界。
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于Tods而言，纷杂背景之下，坚守手工艺价值、始终将人置于核心，尤显珍贵。创意总监Matteo Tamburini操刀的首个男士系列以Artisanal intelligence匠艺才智为主旨，将无惧时光的优雅与标志性的意大利风尚结合，彰显现代而精致的整体风格。
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本季特别推出Pashmy项目，甄选无与伦比的丝绸般触感而著称的皮革面料，运用在飞行员夹克、Gio夹克、衬衫式夹克等外装单品以及全新包袋鞋履中。经过创新处理的珍贵亚麻质料出现在西装及衬衫夹克上，塑造正装风尚；以覆膜及热封技艺打造的战地夹克演绎摩登魅力；长款风衣、针织上装及皮革西装，精于剪裁，以卓越细节低调应对多样生活场景。
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象征意式品质的Gommino豆豆鞋本季推出自然色系的Sabot鞋型，Bubble Gommino鞋履则以崭新船型鞋款与T Bar金属扣饰精彩亮相，尽显意式精湛工艺。男士包袋系列于经典之上焕变新风，延续Di Bag标志性对称美学创新推出多样选择，搭配同系列配饰，丰富当季型装。
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世界上没有完全相似的两个物体。特殊环境与自然条件间的差异，赋予世间万物独一无二的特性，使其各显其姿，各具其态。源自这一构想，Zegna 2025夏季系列应运而生。
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本季秀场中，标志性的“Il Conte”夹克衍生出外套、皮衣、夹克及无袖背心多种廓形赋新呈现，宽松长裤搭配夹克，饰以精心搭配的口袋，满足穿着者个性化的需求；剪裁得体的短袖与亚麻针织衫可作为外套穿着。全新Mocassin乐福鞋是2025夏季时装秀中唯一出现的鞋履单品，与柔软的麂皮手袋及绿洲植物印花元素搭配出现，一同描绘意式夏日风情。
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Zegna 2025夏季系列以杰尼亚白色、亮黄色、泉蓝色、沙黄色、桦木色及狸棕色，与陶土色和淡紫色巧妙融合，并以哑光黑色点缀其间，缤纷色彩凸显材质的丰富纹理。此外，多元材质赋予服饰立体质感，多种元素交汇融合，为整体设计增添独一无二的层次感。在亚麻绿洲，万象纷呈，各具其态。
2025 春夏米兰男装周以发展之态回溯风格定义，亦关乎当下与未来。经典主义回归，多元创意演绎个性态度，创造时装无限可能。
编辑-代晶地
新媒体编辑-Monster C
文字-ss
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